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The Tule x Fen litter made their appearance early Friday morning, 19 March 2021. There are 3 males and 2 females. All are spoken for. For our other litter plans, please see our Planned Litters page... We are rolling into the home stretch now! Pups are expected 20 March 21. All have long since been spoken for. We do have other opportunities that remain available HERE. Enjoy the various edits we have made the the x-rays to help us determine how many are on the way. 
I love fielding questions from our clients! We offer 24/7 tech support, but I'll just go ahead and say it. It's much easier to head problems off before they occur, then to fix them after they have been allowed to manifest.
​We used to have a hard time finding clients with enough time to adequately care for their dog, now it seems everyone is working from home and has time, but this creates new challenges. It seems the big one is, how to keep a pup quiet while I'm Zooming. The next one in line is heading off Separation Anxiety, which should be managed before it even has the chance to manifest.
With a Drent, and most active sporting breeds, a balanced approach is really the way to go: Body & Mind. 
Body:
​ Many folks assume taking the pup for a lot of exercise will help them sleep the day away. To a degree it works like that, however, it will also create a dog that requires exercise... How much running makes a marathon runner tired? Trust me, for the first couple of weeks after hunting season is over, the natives are restless. During the time a pup is young you really can't take them for rigorous or forced exercise. Fortunately for a young dog it doesn't take much to wear one out... it's when you get to the teenage-time that they can go for quite a bit of exercise 'at their own pace' and they will also begin to develop stamina. This is a one dimensional solution that becomes both self-limiting and its own problem. As a side note: a Drent really needs to be at least a year old to start becoming a running partner, even then, shorter runs with varying pace as you work pup up to it. ​ 
Mind:
​ There is a time where using distractors: toys, chews, brain games, etc. is great. Just as important to getting pup out to stretch his legs, but on its own this too becomes self-limiting. As it puts the burden on you to find ever new and more enticing ways to focus your dog's attention. In fact, by spending too much time in the 'mind zone' you can actually defeat your Drent's natural 'off switch' because your dog will always need to be entertained with something! Ever meet a kid who needs to be entertained constantly to stay quiet and out of the way? I'm pretty sure you have... it was fun wasn't it? 
So I just took your whole plan away you say? Well, if that was your plan, then I suppose so and I wasn't even trying - ouch!
So let's do this instead, because I see them as as related. You need balance, Body & Mind, but let us also take advantage of one of the things that makes living with a Drent pretty awesome - let's do some deliberate work on their natural 'off switch' and we do this by teaching the dog to settle! Teaching 'settle' also helps with crate training - which you will need to do as part of your regimen. Also now with so many people being 'home based' these days, taking a proactive approach to avoid separation anxiety has a level of importance many have yet to realize! Yep, that's right your increased availability has a Darkside... So let us head all of this possible drama off at the pass, this is the way. ​Please take a few minutes to watch these videos:
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You can see they are very similar, basically a subtle variation on the same theme - you can find dozens of similar videos on YouTube, and all the better ones will more or less resemble what I have posted above for you. We did this with Ila, and by 5 months she was an Old Hat at being a pro-pub dog!
 Grandpa Booker, Powder-mom and 14-week old baby Ila
I was tempted to write another 'teach your dog to walk with you' article, but really I think what is needed is to flesh this one out a little further. So what I had to say two years ago and some. I love being in a state of constant learning. Challenging old ideas and learning not just new but better methods has been very exciting for me.
So as it is we are likely to call this 'heeling' and/or 'leash manners', it is both and not at all, at the same time. We have been getting more and more into the Force-Free & Higgins Methods of dog training, and frankly it is a direction I have been pointed in for years and didn't realize it. As a side note: Brad Higgins really doesn't like using the words we have assigned to conventional tasks and I'm going to go out on a limb here and say this about it. Those old commands come with a lot of baggage and that baggage can be hard to leave behind. I mean after all the use of 'heel' and other commands has just as much been ingrained into our minds and more importantly how we employ it. Instead of deleting "Stop your dog from pulling!" despite reeking of disciplinarian style obedience (which wasn't intended and rather unfortunate). I'm keeping it around as a bookend to a past life and way of doing things versus disavowing what I wrote. Rather, I hope to build on it since I have learned so much more in how to put these things together. I think we can all agree having a dog that knows how to walk nicely with you is right up there with having a dog with a bullet proof recall. It can save your dog's life and on the lighter end of the scale make walking with your dog so much more pleasant. Allow me to digress a little - over the years we have been using more 'classical conditioning' methods vs old school dog training, also known as 'operant conditioning', as outlined in 'Super Socialization' I recently posted. With Ila we have pushed all the way into this and have achieved some really nice results, really quickly and without any pressure. Phase-1 One of the best ways to start a dog walking with you, is without a leash at all - did I just hear your mind get blown? Yeah. Start without a leash, just high value treats and a clicker if you like. Find a quiet distraction free environment, so you can be the most interesting thing around. Begin by calmly walking away from the pup and into as wide of a counter clockwise circle the area will reasonably allow for. If you are planning to have your dog "heel" on your left. You may need to pat your thigh a time or two initially, but if you can resist your urge to make noise, call to the dog, etc. He'll figure this game out in a jiffy. Before pup gets to you, wedge a small treat right into the crook of your index and middle finger nice and tight. Keep your hand flat, and palm facing rearward. Pup should come to investigate, when he touches your hand, say yes, or click, then let him take the treat. Keep walking as if nothing happened. Reload your finger pocket, and put your hand back down facing back. He may have wandered off a bit in these steps, but he'll be back to see if there is anything good in your finger notch soon enough... By keeping the pup inside your imaginary circle, you are able to use your body to help block him in a bit, and keep him focused more on you. Be sure to be generous with loading your finger notch and rewarding him for being right there at your side. This is a wonderful game, and soon your pup is likely to come running to your side if he sees your hand held low facing back. Phase-2 When pup has really gotten the gist of this fantastic walking game, you can take more steps and begin to use fewer treats by shaking it up a bit. Pop, step. Pop, step. Pop, step. Walk for a few steps. Pop. Walk a step. Pop and so on. Phase-3 Before you ready start weaning him off the goodies. You will want to work in changes of direction. E.g. walk a figure 8, reverse it. Walk squares, etc. You can evolve this game up to whatever level you would like. For example, I used to take Ila to the elementary school next door and use the painted lines on their outdoor multipurpose courts. I'm sure we looked crazy, but she loved the game. For her it was just treats and playing with me. How wonderful is that? So we now have a dog that walks beside us without a leash, but we really aren't ready to go prime time with this until we add in, you guessed it, the leash - but also a 'start' and 'end' queue. Phase-4 So we have done all of this without the use of any collar of any kind: prong/pinch, e-zapper, or choke. No ridiculous harnesses or any of that nonsense. I'm also hoping you have eased up on the use of the clicker by now, and have transitioned more to your verbal marker, 'yes' in my case - it just makes it some much easier, because you are going to have your hands full of leash management! Yes, this leash stuff is going to get interesting, but it'll be so worth it. 4A) Teach your dog straight line leash pressure (SLLP). Start by having your dog wearing a fairly wide (minimum 1" wide) flat collar and you will have a 4'-6' long 1" wide leather lead clipped to the collar. The leash is to be parallel to the ground and as close to 90-degrees from the dog's neck as possible. With the dog standing by your side, gently nag the lead - just enough pressure to get Fido to take a step on his own with the pressure you introduced. Do not pull the dog in any way! Just a gentle 'nag'. Let him choose to step at your suggestion. With that first step, mark it, 'yes' and reward! Do this from a few different positions. This is super basic, but your dog will earn this quickly. You may choose to start your walking sessions with a few of these. 4B) This step is really just a proofing step as your dog should be tracking you pretty darn good if you did well with the first three steps, and taught your dog what leash pressure means in 4A. Start walking with your dog, leash loose or even slightly dragging the ground. After several steps turn sharply, he should be right where he knows to be. Vary your pace, and do turns - keep it up beat and a game. See this was an easy step. 4C) Teach your dog to follow your left leg. Once you have done this, you'll never not want to... Up until now, pup has just learned that following you is fun, and pays the bills. But now we are dialing in a level of fidelity that will make it even easier to manage him around other dogs, people, crowded places, and so forth. With pup standing by your left side and both of your feet in line, in a comfortable neutral standing position. Have the leash short, but loose when you step off with your right foot, it's okay to be a bit exaggerated at first. If pup steps with your right foot, simply give him a touch of rear SLLP (4A) he should stop immediately with this. Then as you step with the with the left leg (for the first time say 'let's go'), he is likely to follow right along, if so mark it, 'yes' and reward! If not give him some gentle SLLP when you step, when he follows on his own. Mark it, 'yes' and reward! Walk around like the robot child of Frankenstein, take big slow deliberate steps. Be sure to step off with your right foot, and return to standing periodically, then step left. Shake it up a bit and when you stop on your left, be prepared to apply SLLP to keep him from fording ahead. Always mark, and reward for moving or stopping with your left foot movement. Odds are Fido will get this really quickly if you take the time to look foolish stepping around like a crazy person. 4D) Turning left. So now your dog is tracking close to you, and stopping when the left leg is stopped and walking when your left leg is in motion. Turning to the right is super easy, but turning left puts you into the dog... let's avoid that. One if you did the circle method, odds are he tracks you well, if not this will help dial it in. Walk normally and stop walking with your left foot down. At first you will need to exaggerate the movement of your right leg. Take a high-kneed marching step with your right, and cross it to your left swinging it in front of the dog, then walk. As you practice this you can become more natural with your walking at the speed your dog identifies what is going on... Don't worry, looking a bit foolish is a small price to pay for creating a masterful walking/running companion! 4E) The release word! This is great for letting your dog know he can go potty on leash, or go tearing free at a place and time you have determined it was safe to do so. I use 'all done' as taught HERE. Your dog has a start and stop queue - how sweet is that!? 4F) Practice: Yep, go walk your dog! Your dogs knows where to be, and if he gets a little bit out of place you have a gentle tool (SLLP) to help him get into place. He will monitor and pace your left leg, walking or running. Turning left or right. The more you play this game with him the better he will be. There is no punishment in this method - period. The dog has chosen to walk with you, and has learned that being in 'heel' position works really well for him. When you get to the advanced stage where you are using the leash it is never punitive, it only is used to gently deny him the self-reward of walking when the right foot starts. If you didn't use the free shaping method I detailed above, you will want to use the Higgins Leader walk detailed below. This method can be used in tandem with free shaping for a dog who has learned to pull. Your dog does need confidence walking on leash in order to employ this method. So if she is pulling hard at the leash, she is ready. The dog controls the 'pressure' it takes on. The dog really does all of the teaching it needs vs you pressuring the dog into position. Now that Ila's confidence on the leash has made her a bit of a nuisance, her 'leash work & heeling' has moved onto the phase of using Brad Higgins' 'The Walk' method and with really good success at that. So get ready to add another layer of teamwork and trust:
Kat from StandingStone Kennels uses essentially the same method, and she explains the use of the method a little more and maybe a little better. You will see she uses an EasyLead which in comparison to the light line Brad uses, I feel, is slightly less effective. Make your own mind up:
 So three years after this was originally published, it's time for a little update. So if you are one of the few people who check in here from time to time, thank you and I hope you enjoy. In the world of dog food there is an abundance of mythology and folk lore surrounding what constitutes a good dog food and kibble manufacturers have a kibble for every budget out there! Many companies cater to our instinct to provide the best we can afford to our four-legged family members using powerful modern marketing strategies which take advantage of our instincts and desires by leveraging our biases, and ignorance. Yes, it's like that. Most likely, just as you have done, we have poured over tons of dog food comparison websites in search of the kibble with the most stars or dog bones a particular website will dare honor a kibble with. About eleven years ago now I found The Dog Food Project when I was living in Spain and this is where I learned most websites use flawed and/or biased grading systems to honor kibble with stars or dog bones as they see fit. In short, effective marketing equals popularity. Popularity drives demand and demand drives price. Meaning popular doesn't mean better or more cost effective. So how do you avoid buying the Ol' Roy's and Beneful's of the dog food world, which are considered to be the worst dog foods ever produced? Just as important, how to avoid the Gold Plated and Hyper-priced dog foods, like ZiwiPeak and K9 Natural that really aren't worth the extra money - in our case feeding those diets would cost us over $3,000 per month to feed our brood! Presently we spend about $68 p/month to feed our four Drents. Selecting a good dog food really comes down to a few things, and it requires some time and energy on your part. So here is what The Dog Food Project has taught me: 1) Understand the Label 2) Know what to Avoid 3) Recognize the good stuff Now you know, not all of the 'bad' ingredients aren't as bad as we have been "taught" and not all the 'good' ingredients aren't as good as we have been "taught". You have the basics down, it is time to read some labels and make some choices. Has your dog shown sensitivity to an ingredient? Can you be sure it was actually the ingredient you think it was? Did you have an allergy panel run? The FDA recently published an article that links grain-free diets to certain health problems! So unless you have an absolutely clear reason to go grain free - why bother with it. What is your budget? How many dogs do you need to feed? What is their activity level? and so on. You will learn there are a number of very affordable high-quality kibbles hiding in plain sight. Most are made by the big companies like Purina, Eukanuba, and Royal Canin... Sure they have low range feeds, but they also have put tons of R&D money into their 'hi-line' feeds. There are also a few other manufactures out there who cater to providing for the working dog which also tend to represent very strong value propositions e.g. getting a lot for your money and your dog!  As I sit here in cold wet Spokane in early January looking to collect my thoughts about the previous month. It boggles my mind we spent the entire month of December in Arizona hunting quail. In fact, we spent thirty of thirty-one days in the field on the prowl for quail and it was glorious! We lost the one day to some emergency dental work on Fowler and Powder. Broken teeth in one form or another, extraction, or root canal, neither are inexpensive nor effectively covered by any pet insurance. But hey, we got a multi-pet discount so that made it alright – cough, cough, as I wipe a tear from my eye… Without going into a daily account, as I am prone to do, I’ll endeavor to stay above board so to speak. To help set the stage, it was supposed to be the best year in over thirty years for desert quail, Gambles and Scaled. While Mearns were predicted to be in for an extremely poor year. With that said, what did we experience?  Year after year I promise myself to add days of desert quail to the schedule, but I always succumb to the allure of hunting Mearns. The day we lost was one allocated for desert quail hunting due to the dental dramas of Team Double Dutch. Jenna did an amazing job of organizing their care while we were on the road heading south. This on-the-fly arrangement could be a story unto itself…but I’ll spare you. The area we normally hunt has these desert quail on the periphery – should be easy. LoL famous last words. We arrived safe and sound, but couldn’t check in for nearly five hours and Jenna was concerned about what we would do with the time we had to kill. It was an easy answer for me, go hunting of course! So that is what we did and immediately found a covey of forty or fifty Gambels quail right exactly where they were supposed to be. Clearly they had been schooled and had an exceptionally low tolerance for our piss poor just wheeling in off the road tactics. We did find a few other coveys in the few days spent chasing ‘desert birds’, one with probably close to a hundred birds or so, but they had been well-schooled by hunters. They all got up and vacated the area in a jiffy. Not even one willing to help get us on the board.
 When I lived in New Mexico I found hunting Gambels to be a pain in the butt, apparently, they are the same in AZ. I have a better idea what to do for our next trip, and possibly get my Arizona Quail Slam – something I’ve flirted with doing, but never really set myself to do. Always the call of the Mearns is my downfall. Jenna is a research junky and a huge asset on trips like this. She asks me a bunch of questions, and off she goes… With her effort, we hunted almost all new to us places this year, and only did a repeat on a couple of places. All in all, I am sure we hunted the full range of habitat that Mearns will live in. From altitudes of over 7,000 feet amongst the pines and juniper. Some of the rockiest and devoid of grass places I never would have ever thought to hunt. Let me be clear, places that looked much better to just drive on past. We pushed the truck hard, and my off-road driving tolerance to its limit. Yes, we had the rock sliders banging and grinding, low range has never been used more – and there were a couple of times we turned back without reaching our destination.  We found coveys in horrifically cattle-bombed places, and nothing in places that just last year held so many large coveys the excitement of having the location pop up on the schedule would make sleep the night before difficult to achieve. We had one day of being skunked, I don’t care who you are, it happens. Mostly though we averaged three coveys a day with several spikes of seven or eight coveys found in a day – a good day regardless of how the overall season is supposed to measure up. All quail live and die by the rain. Each species needs rain at a different time of year, and when they get the rain they need, their populations can really explode. When they don’t, they retreat into prime areas or those which got the rain they need. With Mearns it is the summer monsoon that drives their success. Monsoon rains are fickle. One area gets just what it needs, the coulee over got none, the one over was pounded too hard and so the birds are where the rain was just right, and not where it wasn’t. Figuring this out is crucial to being successful.  With Mearns there is always the specter of over hunting. Coveys live in relatively small home ranges, so once you find one, your ability to find it again goes up. I have gently hunted specific coveys for over a decade. It takes a good bit of disruption to cause a covey to hightail it to a new location – but it does happen. Even if it is only one individual or two at a time. For example, a few years ago hunting with Booker I had a covey get up, and one little Bull just motored. He cleared the broad rocky streambed, then rocketed up and over a mammoth cottonwood tree on the far side. And G.O.N.E. he was. We have found coulees in the late season that were totally subpar but held astounding numbers of birds with no sign of hunting… those junk coulees were always surrounded by those with prime habitat that got hunted hard – just by looking at the boot tracks and spent shell casings. These birds, they have a brain the size of a lentil, but they aren’t dumb. Small coveys? Interestingly we kept getting early season reports of small coveys consisting of only two to four birds – this is what many people were finding. Which perpetuated the thought the 2020/21 Mearns season was one of the worst in years. Well, I’m here to say it was an interesting season, that much I am sure of. With some areas plum full of birds, and others, that usually held good numbers, with none.  It wasn’t long before Jenna and I started finding these ‘small’ coveys. In one case, I took the second double I managed the whole trip, and soon realized there were no other birds – I felt ill. Now before I am vilified, here is the rest of the story… like all the other times we had ‘small covey’ experience one or both of the dogs had always been doing a lot of tracking, and then whamo there they were. Shortly after the other dog working 30 to 70 yards away would go on point. We’d go and work that and then we’d have a proper covey flush, easily more than ten birds. So, it seems to me it was the large coveys that did the most running and tended to ‘drop off’ a few birds so the others could escape. Several times we heard them casting their vote on who to sacrifice. This scenario played out time and time again where we found larger than normal coveys.
 Some of the inquiries we get might surprise you. As you might guess in this day and age, many lack basic common courtesy – the worse of which we simply don’t even acknowledge. The better of which will we provide at least a reasonable, if not short, but professional response. However, recently we fielded an inquiry about how to bring a new puppy home. The answer for this question is best provided by the breeder you have acquired your pup from, or even Google vs some random breeder or person. After all it's not a short answer. A rather odd request from someone who you have not had nor plan to have any future interaction with. I provided some basic info, then reviewed our own puppy related materials and realized it wouldn’t hurt to add to what we have started. So, for that, thank you random person for your questions. This also this helped to make good on a client’s request on putting all this stuff in one place – I didn’t really know how to do it, but this is what I came up with. Part 1: What is the best way to acclimate a new puppy into the home? A great place to get setup for success is to review each of the articles highlighted by the hyperlinks throughout this article to include reviewing our Recommended Reading for new puppy owners. Getting Set up for Success is where we talk about all sorts of things ranging from general physical concerns and needs for a rapidly growing puppy's joints & bones, as well as puppy proofing your home & yard. Here is a list of puppy essentials for what your puppy will need. Oh and not to forget, how do you plan to manage the messes that will happen, during your potty training adventures? Additionally, have you nailed down a teething management strategy,? Some pups will chew like a beaver, and others hardly any, but knowing what to do in advance can help shape all of their desires. Have you considered coat care, and the tools and time required? For Drents it’s pretty easy, but still it’s something you should have thought about. Extending this thought process, you will want to be sure you have a veterinarian selected, if you don’t have one already, well in advance to bringing pup home. Also, what do you plan to feed pup? You don’t need to feed the ultra-expensive stuff to have a happy, healthy dog, but if you are considering to feed Old Roy, you should consider putting yourself on a diet of corn and rice hulls seasoned with charcoal, and for a big night out you guessed it – Top Ramen.  Next, you will also want to have a socialization and training plan thought through in advance. The more comprehensive, the better. At the minimum we strongly encourage everyone to update what they know, or think they know about dog training. A lot has changed with the advent of the scientific study of Canine Behavior: Example 1, Example 2, Example 3. The old concept of Alpha/Dominant v. Submissive is quaint. The old techniques of traditional obedience training are at best boring and repetitive. These methods tend to be unkind, bordering on inhumane. Not even thinking about the old ways of bird dog training which if we are to be frank can be quite barbaric. We can and should do better, by looking towards trainers like Brad Higgins, McCann Dog Training, and Stonnie Dennis, for example. You should seriously consider enrolling pup in a certified AKC S.T.A.R. puppy course and shooting for achieving an AKC Canine Good Citizen certification. Part 2: How do you Introduce pup to your other dogs? Alright, so The Pup is en route - what to do? Each dog should ideally have its’ own handler – this really can make it or break it if things were to slide sideways. Both dogs should be restrained by a leash initially. Allow them to sniff one another. Expect pup to maybe be a little bit timid or restrained. If so, it may be appropriate to allow the pup off leash to make its own introductions on its’ own terms. In this case restraining the adult dog can be important as they can get over excited and without meaning cause harm to the pup, in particular if much larger and stronger. With a little care, some calmness and patience, introducing pup should be fairly quick and painless. However, pup and Fido-1’s interactions will need to be supervised for the next few days. Play sessions will likely need to be supervised for the next several months, remember avoiding serious injury to pup is paramount – when in doubt call a timeout. With that in mind, here are a few other tips for success: Be aware and don’t leave yours dogs alone and unsupervised. Avoid free feeding and encourage waiting when it is feeding time. When you offer special treats e.g. chews and/or raw hides, ensure there is enough for all, supervise, and pick them up long before they are fully consumed. Please be sure to have an ample supply of toys and beds. If one toy becomes a point of contention, retire it. Monitor play time be aware of body language and if/when needed redirect and give timeouts as appropriate. To the greatest extent possible give each dog a little bit of its own time. We believe through daily, structured walks; your dogs will respect you as the boss and look towards you for guidance and direction. Daily, structured walking is a great way to establish your benevolent leadership. After a month of careful supervision, correcting misbehavior, structured walking, and supervised feedings, your dogs will know you are the boss and the new/old dog is not a threat. Once your dogs begin to feel safe with one another, their true personalities will come out and you will have two wonderful pack members to entertain you and love you for the rest of their lives.  So, if have been caught be the Drent virus, you are likely adding to your clan. Or if you are recently afflicted, you may still have another dog as part of your clan. Either way, you need to integrate. If you don’t already have a dog, my initial reaction is to pass this up…but my better sensibility says take a moment to read, and let it marinate for a later time – after all, you have the Drent virus, and there is no known cure. Alright, okay, enough shenanigans – I’ll get to it…well, not to be special, but you are here on my blog so endure. You need to introduce pupski to an established adult dog. So, let us consider the established dog for a moment. Is he a model canine citizen? Let’s be honest, you know him far better than anyone so there is no need to tell any stories or make excuses. Does Fido-1 have separation anxiety, excessive barking, destructiveness, house training issues, aggressiveness/shyness towards other animals/people? If so, you should really work on getting those issues remedied – puppy will not help any at all. What you can expect pupper to do is to pick up some, if not all, of these less than desirable traits unless YOU have a clear and decisive plan, which is likely to involve external onsite assistance. Because the only thing worse that one canine terrorist, is two (or more, God forbid). Okay, so your current dog is more or less well-adjusted and well behaved. Finding balance is likely the path to success. This doesn’t mean if your dog is a total couch potato you should add Hellfire the Tasmanian Spaziod to the equation - what is or will be complimentary? What temperament and personality will compliment, coexist, or coincide with what you currently have? With some deliberate thought you can create some amazing canine partnerships. Part 3: Crate training - what is that all about? Some people want to think a dog crate is a punishment tool, when in reality a properly sized crate is your dog’s home inside of your home. This, as you might imagine, has a few benefits like helping to potty train pup, keep pup safe when you can’t supervise him adequately, to name just a few. It is important to have the crate properly sized and built to be safe and secure. A dog’s crate should be a happy place. The training process can go quite rapidly, or it may take a couple of weeks. Always have in mind, the crate is the dog’s house, and it should be a pleasant place for him. Generally, this can be accomplished without too much ado by breaking the process down into a few steps, just be mindful not to rush. A handy, mobile, oft overlooked and undervalued tool is teaching your dog to settle. Drents have a natural 'off switch' so why not cultivate it and use it to your advantage? In doing so, it will help with crate training and in turn separation anxiety if you happen to be home based as many are these days. Who knows, you might even end up with a super cool 'pub dog' that everyone is jealous of... Now back to crate training. Introduce pup to the crate. Do so calmly and be sure the door can’t slam around or close. Put some of pup’s favorite things into the kennel along with a few treats. Drop a few treats near the kennel, then just inside the door, then toss a few treats in. Let pup take his time to go in. We familiarize our pups with kennels in the whelping box – so this should be super easy. However, at first, this will be new in his new home, so a little bit of patience will serve you well. Once pup is going in the crate well on his own, be sure to feed him at least once a day, or possibly all his meals for a little while in the crate. At first with the door open, then gradually work towards shutting then even latching the door for short periods. Work up to 10 minutes or so after eating. Here is where things can get tricky, and you will need some will power to get through this. If pup whines in the crate, you did too much too fast and here is the catch, you can’t let pup out while he is whining or crying. You can sit by the door, even place a finger in for pup to smell and help calm him. Once the whining has stopped, and this could be a while in some cases, you may then open the door. If you open the door while the pup is crying it very well may make the association and begin doing much more crying and whining – just what we want to avoid. You may need to have pup close by in his crate at first, and just like ‘playing with the door’ you can adjust proximity. Evening TV time, or some other calm time is perfect for working on building familiarity and comfort. Also McCann has an entire crate training series which you may find helpful.Some people want to think a dog crate is a punishment tool, when in reality a properly sized crate is your dog’s home inside of your home. This, as you might imagine, has a few benefits like helping to potty train pup, keep pup safe when you can’t supervise him adequately, to name just a few. It is important to have the crate properly sized and built to be safe and secure. A dog’s crate should be a happy place. The training process can go quite rapidly, or it may take a couple of weeks. Always have in mind, the crate is the dog’s house, and it should be a pleasant place for him. Generally, this can be accomplished without too much ado by breaking the process down into a few steps, just be mindful not to rush. A handy, mobile, oft overlooked and undervalued tool is teaching your dog to settle. Drents have a natural 'off switch' so why not cultivate it and use it to your advantage? In doing so, it will help with crate training and in turn separation anxiety if you happen to be home based as many are these days. Who knows, you might even end up with a super cool 'pub dog' that everyone is jealous of... Now back to crate training. Introduce pup to the crate. Do so calmly and be sure the door can’t slam around or close. Put some of pup’s favorite things into the kennel along with a few treats. Drop a few treats near the kennel, then just inside the door, then toss a few treats in. Let pup take his time to go in. We familiarize our pups with kennels in the whelping box – so this should be super easy. However, at first, this will be new in his new home, so a little bit of patience will serve you well. Once pup is going in the crate well on his own, be sure to feed him at least once a day, or possibly all his meals for a little while in the crate. At first with the door open, then gradually work towards shutting then even latching the door for short periods. Work up to 10 minutes or so after eating. Here is where things can get tricky, and you will need some will power to get through this. If pup whines in the crate, you did too much too fast and here is the catch, you can’t let pup out while he is whining or crying. You can sit by the door, even place a finger in for pup to smell and help calm him. Once the whining has stopped, and this could be a while in some cases, you may then open the door. If you open the door while the pup is crying it very well may make the association and begin doing much more crying and whining – just what we want to avoid. You may need to have pup close by in his crate at first, and just like ‘playing with the door’ you can adjust proximity. Evening TV time, or some other calm time is perfect for working on building familiarity and comfort. Also McCann has an entire crate training series which you may find helpful.  Crating pup overnight: Alrighty, now it is really time to start to work with longer crating periods. We have found doing this while you are at home really is best as you as easily start adding some structure to an already familiar event. Here are your marks:
 Yes, this can appear to run a bit contrary to to the whole training process, and frankly can be the most difficult part of crate and potty training – the night shift. Leaving pup out all night is surely going to result in a mess, damage to something, pup getting into things which might harm him, or for a real banner night all or a combo. Crating at night is a must until pup has proven himself reliable in all ways. Generally, it’s a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom if space permits or nearby in a hallway. Young puppies will need to go potty during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy BEFORE they whine to be let outside. Put pup in the crate using your regular command and a treat, know what pup’s potty schedule is (going potty just before bedtime is an absolute must), so that you can set a gentle alarm to take him out just before his normally scheduled time. Expect to get up at least 2 times each night for the first few nights. As his day schedule lengthens his night schedule should as well. One bit of advice here is to pick up the water bowl about 2-2.5 hours before bedtime. Soon your dog will be sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.  Potential problems:
Whining - If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they’re whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they actually need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, they'll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored them for several minutes, calmly take the pup out of the crate and carry outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. Give your “go potty” command and give pup a few minutes to get the job done. If he goes potty, give a calm “good boy” and carry back to the crate without a fuss. If he does not potty, then without drama take pup back to his crate. Potty or no potty ends with the same outcome - trips in the middle of the night are for necessity only, and the crate is a requirement until it’s time to start the day. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation anxiety - Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may get injured in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help. |
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